Topping Lift Replacement

Next on the list of bigger projects list is replacing the topping lift cable, blocks, and line. I’ve been experiencing a lot of friction in the system, probably due to the age and condition of the old blocks , guides, and line. Because of the age, I’m replacing some of the parts of the topping lift system. After that, I’ll see how it works. It is likely that I’ll find some other part of the system that could be upgraded.

Cable

I need a new topping lift cable. It’s a safety issue in that it forms a critical part of the sailing rig.

I am getting a quote from Mike Quill (https://www.mqyr.com/) for a new topping lift cable. On the Nonsuch, the topping lift is one of the keys to controlling sail shape. That makes it important in terms of getting the best performance out of the boat.

(Update from Mike: the boom hangers were last replaced in 2004, according to his records. It’s time to replace those, too!)

The existing cable exhibits rust stains at the boom end of the cable (just above the blocks in the photo). It appears to be the original cable, making it 40 years old. Wire rigging should be replaced from time to time and with such an old cable, it is possible that failure is imminent.

Mike manufactures a slightly heavier duty cable, using the wire cable size for the Nonsuch 30 to craft the replacement cables for the Nonsuch 26 boats.

I plan to have Aloft Marine install the topping lift cable. That vendor is very busy. Once I get a time estimate on receiving the new cable, I am hoping he can fit this small job into his schedule.

Blocks

The current block system doesn’t provide sufficient leverage. And those blocks? They look like they are the originals from when the boat was manufactured in 1982!

The wishbone boom with the sail makes for a heavy package that is hard to lift, at least for me. I chose to upgrade to a system with greater purchase to make it a little easier to lift the boom and sail.

While I was selecting the triple block for the top of the assembly and the double block with becket for the bottom, I realized that I really wanted the becket to be centered in the block. The triple block with becket has the becket where I want it. I plan to only use two of the three pulleys on the bottom block. The line will be reeved similar to an example provided by Harken.

The brand I selected is Garhauer because of their great 10-year warranty. The blocks I selected are:

• Unibody Triple Block with Becket and Shackle 25-27B UB
• Unibody Triple Block with Shackle 25-27 UB
• Unibody Single Block with Shackle 25-13 UB

You may be wondering what the single block is for. Well, there is a cheek block on the wishbone boom that looks original to the boat. Rather than replace it, my plan is to temporarily bypass it with a low friction ring with prespliced Dyneema loop.

The size I selected has a breaking strength of 1,980 pounds which I am guessing will provide an ample margin of safety. For now, I’ll just loop the Dyneema loop over the check block pulley.

There are some additional blocks at the mast that I need to examine. I’ll do that later this week with my cell phone camera and my binoculars.

EDIT: I stopped by the boat today to check the toilet connections for leaks (none!) and took that opportunity to check the blocks at the mast. There are two double blocks, one near the base of the mast and one mounted to the wishbone boom. The one at the base of the mast looks like it is deteriorating. I ordered a new double block to replace it, and since I’m doing one, I’ll do both.

Line

For the topping lift system, friction is not my friend, except that I need a large enough line size to be able to grip with my hands. I chose to keep the line size about the same but use a more modern line for additional strength. I selected 76 feet of 8MM (5/16″) XLE Performer Series Line from Atlantic Rigging Supply. ARS will, for a small fee, also make an eye splice in one end and whip the other end.

It may be that the line I selected is too large. The Garhauer blocks have a maximum line size of 3/8″ and the XLE Performer line is 1/16″ smaller than that. I’ll see how that goes. The line has a firmer finish than the old line so I’m guessing (hoping?) it will easily slide/roll through the system. I can downsize the line if it’s too big. And I can always find a place to use the line if it ends up being too large.