The marine head has been neglected and is, in fact, plugged. Raw seawater is not being pulled in when the handle is pumped, and no nasty stuff is leaving the bowl. It just gurgles at me, as if in spite.
A non-working head is a nonstarter for my spouse so this becomes my very first project on Narwhal née Swoose.
We’ve used porta-potties before and marine heads in other boats, but I’ve never faced the prospect of diagnosing and fixing a problem such as this on a boat. It is a bit overwhelming, so I am doing what I usually do when faced with something new: I’m learning all I can, as quickly as I can.
Of course, my first thought was to find an experienced repair person who could take care of this for me. This is especially attractive because this is an especially distasteful job. But that does not appear to be in the cards. I was hoping someone might want to moonlight and make some extra cash but I haven’t found that knight in shining armor yet. Boatyards are booked up two and three months ahead.
The surveyor documented that the head doesn’t work. The broker says he thinks it won’t prime. I suspect that no raw water is getting to the toilet. Even if one of them did open the raw water line to the toilet, it may be plugged. Also, the wet/dry switch is not easily seen on this model head so it may just be that it is set to in the dry position.
The easiest first steps are to make sure the raw water seacock is open and that the wet/dry switch on the head is switched to wet. This is an old marine head, a Raritan Cricket. It’s a wonderful unit but the factory stopped production of it decades ago. I have not been able to find any rebuild kits or spare parts. But this also means that perhaps the surveyor was not familiar enough with the head to know there is a wet/dry toggle. In this installation, it is out of sight, near the floor on the righthand side of the base.
I’ll work the raw water seacock a few times and maybe run a scrub brush under the hull to try to dislodge any blocking material. I hope to be able to put a waterproof action camera on a painter pole and actually get some views of the through-hull, too.
Then I’ll make sure the wet/dry switch is set to wet. A few good strokes of the pump handle should tell me a lot at that point, but it may take more strokes than that because the boat has been idle for quite a while.
A surprising thing about joker valves for marine heads is they are almost a universal fitting thing. At least in later models, a Raritan-brand joker valve fits Jabsco toilets and vice-versa. Joker valves are cheap so I bought two.
And I know I’m going to have to replace the marine sanitation hose that conveys the nasty stuff from the toilet to the black water tank, so I ordered some new hose and new clamps. But in trying to figure out how much hose to buy, I discovered that the boat manual doesn’t specify the length! Fortunately, informed guidance from an experienced Nonsuch 26 owner helped me select a length that should end up being long enough.
Goal one is to get the head functional again. Goal two is to clean it out — and replace the sanitation hose — so that we are prepared to replace the head. And replace the head we must because even if I can get it to work again, I know I can’t find spare parts for it. A new marine head is a good solution.
The sequence of events I plan to follow when we visit the boat to work on the head is:
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